When you go:
Alvear Palace Hotel: www.alvearpalace.com; 11/4804/2100
La Biela: www.labiela.com; 11/4804/0449
Café Tortoni: 11/4342-4328 (Make reservations in advance for the tango show)

Need to know:
Take an ATM card for ready cash for purchases. Visa owns this market; some places, like La Biela, don’t accept MasterCard. American Express is widely accepted, as well.

Gratuities are 10 percent.

For safety purposes, take only the taxis marked Radio Taxi. At the airport upon arrival, go to ground transportation area and arrange for a cab at a kiosk; don’t use those clustered about outside the terminal.

Seasons are opposite ours. Their spring and fall are prime times to go; high season, their summer (our January and February) are very busy with long lines of tourists.

If time permits, take an overnight side trip to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. It’s an easy ferry ride across the widest river in the world, Rio de la Plata. The 17th century, walled, historic city is rife with cobblestone streets, cafes and an ambiance you’ll cherish. Buenos Aires residents flock here in their hot summer months as a city escape. FerryLineas 02/900-6617; Oficina de Tourismo 052/27000. The ferry ride round trip is about $65.